Lahad Datu Town

Lahad Datu has a strong influence of Indonesia.

Lahad Datu is home to the Segama Dusuns, Idahans and the Bagahak Dusuns.

Prior to the building of the Segama bridge, visitors from Sandakan and the West Coast would cross the ferry into Lahad Datu. The ferry terminal in Lahad Datu was located in Bukit Balacon, the heart of Dusun Segama territory.

People visiting Lahad Datu then would first encounter the Dusun Segamae people. There was a hive of activity back then on both sides of the river, with business mostly conducted by the Segama Dusuns.

On the other side of the district, visitors coming in from Tawau and the south would first encounter Silam and Sapagaya, two areas which are dominated by the Idahans. Most roadside stalls then were operated and manned by the Idahans.

Things began to change in the early 1980s when thousands of Indonesians suddenly became citizens.

Up to the early 1990s, for instance, the market in Batu Satu (Mile 1 Segama) were dominated by Dusun traders.

Similarly the minibus operations between Segama and Sapagaya and the town centre were operated by Dusuns and Idahans, respectively.

However, a
But aggressive competition from foreign business people proved no match for the locals and many of them began to move elsewhere or close shop.

The food of the Bagahak Dusuns, Segama Dusuns and Idahans.

The Dusuns of Segama, for example, are known for various delicacies such as tinambak (quite similar to hinava in Penampang) and sindara (a delicacy made of wild boar fat and skin).

Another popular dish of the Segama Dusuns is marang which is a chilli sambal made using dalit (red durian).

A popular place to sample food of the Segama Dusuns would be Ah Chan's food stall in Bukit Balacon. Ah Chan's food stall is visited by many of those from the West Coast.

Lahad Datu is also known for its distinctive varieties of hill rice.

In Kampung Sri Darun in Tungku, for example, the Bagahak Dusuns plant a type of hill rice which is white in color. However the smell is extremely fragrant. Unfortunately their numbers are rapidly dwindling as many are opting for oil palm which is more lucrative.

In the Segama area alone, right up to as recently as 2001 we could still see large tracts of land planted with hill paddy. Today, these paddy lands have been replaced by oil palm. One would have to travel to villages such as Sinduron or Tawayari in upper Segama to see any rice planting now.

Some of these hill rice do occasionally find their way to the Lahad Datu market at times.

The Idahans also have some very tasty delicacies to their credit.

Tembak which is preserved and salted oyster and alau which is mashed dalit mixed with salt and eaten with rice are some of Idahan specialties.

Sukau Village
Kampung Sukau Kinabatangan

by the lower Kinabatangan River
the longest river in Sanah

Sukau is south of Sandakan over a long dusty sand road, with lots and lots of bumps in it for about 30 kilometres

Sukau is located on the lower Kinabatangan River, the longest river of Borneo.

Greenview is closer to town (1.5km), though the prices are a bit higher. Sukau B&B is about 2.5 km further from town and is a bit less $ and all shared bath Rm30.00 per person.

Sukau Bed & Breakfast Guesthouse is the last guesthouse along the road Sukau road; the road ends here, beyond it the forest begins. Built high on stilts over the river, 1km east of the Sukau village, this friendly guesthouse is one of the last places to flood when the river rises. It's also one of the last places to sell accommodation only. It can arrange boats and transfers on request.

The Tomanggong Sukau B&B is run by a local family in the village of Sukau. Set by the riverside and amidst the tropical rainforest, the family's traditional stilt house and three fully equipped chalets offer the opportunity to experience the wilderness of the Kinabatangan in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere.

Road condition to Sukau. The road into Sukau has been upgraded from gravel to tar in 2008

Where is the lower Kinabatangan and Sukau? How to get there?
Lower Kinabatangan is in the east coast of Sabah . It is the lower reaches of the Kinabatangan river, which is Sabah longest river that flows 560km.

Sukau is one of the villages along the river accessible by road. Sukau is the gateway to the amazing nature of Kinabatangan.

From Sandakan, take a drive for 2 hour to reach the village of Sukau . The last 1 hour driving is on a stretch of gravel road which is currently being tarred.

Darvel Bay Plaza
Lahad Datu 's largest shopping complex
05 October, 2007

Purchasing power of the middle class in Lahad Datu is strong. Sabah Urban Development Corporation (SUDC) aims to turn Lahad Datu into a vibrant town with modern shopping facilities through Darvel Bay Plaza on a five-acre site as part and parcel of the Darvel Bay Commercial Centre development, with financial assistance from Sabah Credit Corporation (SCC).

Ready for business in mid 2010, this largest shopping complex in Lahad Datu will introduce a brand new shopping experience, offering an interesting mix of retail, supermarket, food court, homewares, IT, high fashion and modern cafes - all under one roof.

The development of Darvel Bay Plaza is timely and in line with Sabah government effort to have sustainable economic growth in Sabah. Darvel Bay Plaza will complement the commercial, industrial and other economic-based activities in Lahad Datu and its surrounding neighbours. The development of Darvel Bay Plaza is considered timely and in line with the strong macro-economic outlook for Lahad Datu.

The Palm Oil Industrial Cluster (POIC) Lahad Datu project that is currently undergoing rapid development will be generating more opportunities like employment and so on, which will increase the purchasing power of locals.

Lahad Datu is one of Sabah's main ports and entry points for traders and tourists going in and out daily between here and the Philippines.

Darvel Bay Plaza has a gross development value of about RM170million with a total floor area of 600,000 square feet and a retail area of 250,000 square feet. Some 12,487 square feet of the area has been allocated for the central atrium.

The shopping complex has two storeys of retail spaces and ample parking areas with 645 bays of car park. About 30 per cent of the shop lots have already been taken.

Besides Darvel Bay Plaza, SUDC also has other projects throughout the State and some of these completed projects include the Tawau Light Industrial Estate, Kuhara Court Condominium, Marina Court Condominium, Lok Kawi Heights, Sandakan Industrial Estate, Lahad Datu Industrial Estate, Keningau Industrial Area, Asia City Complexes and many more since its inception in 1973.

Eastern Plaza Shopping Complex and Kuhara Hotel project in Tawau are completed in 2008.

Batu Tulug Archaeological Museum
(Muzium Arkeologi Tulug)
Kampung Batu Putih

Batu Tulug Cave
45 minutes from Lahad Datu

Located at Batu Putih village and 41km from the Kota Kinabatangan township, Agop Batu Tulug is a steep limestone cliff that stands 39 meters high and is part of the 20-25 million- year old Labang limestone formation. The word agop in the Orang Sungai language means cave. There are three main caves, agop suriba (lower) on the forest floor, lintaga (middle) and sawat (upper) between 12-15m high. Inside the middle and upper caves are more than a hundred carved wooden coffins dating back 200-250 years, watched over by bats and swallows. Batu Putih village can be viewed from here as well. The coffins resemble different animals associated to the beliefs of the Orang Sungai but it has also been said that they are the coffins of the Chinese who once settled in the area as Chinese artifacts were found among the remains. A site Museum since 1996, it has facilities such as an information center, stairs leading to the caves, toilets and resting huts.

Getting there :

The drive to Batu Tulug takes one and a half hours from Sandakan or 45 minutes from Lahad Datu. You may self-drive or go through a tour operator.

Extra Information :

Daily from 9.00am till 5.00pm,http://www.mzm.sabah.gov.my/agoptulug/cyber_tulugmuseum.htm

Road condition : Good

Gomantong Caves
(The Black Caves & The White Caves)
Largest cave system in Sabah,
110 km by road south of Sandakan,

Home to over one million swiftlets. The swiftlets' nest are collected for the famous Chinese Delicacy, bird's nest soup, and fetch a good price locally and abroad. Twice a year, in the caves men can be seen scaling bamboo ladders to heights of about 90m to collect this delicacy off the cave walls. The swiftlets’ neighbors are bats, more than a million of them, living above an enormous guano pile. The sighting of bats, swiftlets, birds and butterflies is virtually guaranteed, with the occasional bonus of small mammals, including orang utan. Harvesting of the nests is a spectacular and dangerous operations which is only carried out twice per year, usually around March to April and August to September. To find out the exact harvesting times you need to contact the Wildlife Department at 6089-666550 for more details.

Two varieties of swiftlets make edible birth nests. Good quality birds nests can fetch more than US$ 1000 per kilo! Although the visit is more spectacular during nest collection seasons, the lime stone cave is most impressive all year round with sightings of animals and insects.

The Gomantong limestone caves are the source for the swiflets' nests that the soup is made of. These caves are 5 km south from the road leading to Sukau. The caves are a good 20 km from the main highway. Visitors may go in, but many do not as the whole place buzzes with insects.

The limestone Gomantong Caves are 45 minutes from Sandakan, and are the world’s biggest bird’s nest caves. Expert skill is involved as the harvesters ascend the bamboo ladder to collect the precious nest of the swiftlet bird, which are used for bird’s-nest soup.

Danum Valley

One of the last remaining reserves of primary lowland rainforest, this 438 sq. km. area is said to have the world's most complex eco-system. Home to over 275 bird species, numerous reptiles, amphibians, fishes, and insects, its uniqueness lies in the dipterocarp forests covering over 90% of the area, a haven for various indigenous plant species and over 110 mammals, including the rare Sumatran rhino, clouded leopard, orang utan and proboscis monkeys.

An untouched paradise in the heart of the natural world, it is located 80 km. inland from Lahad Datu. A journey by car takes 2 hours but permits have to be obtained beforehand. A better alternative would be to arrange for transport with local tour agents.

Overnight stays are advised to better appreciate the variety of wildlife. Viewing platforms and the 27-metre high tree-top canopy walkway give a majestic view of the forest and is perfect for bird-watching. Engage an experienced guide to lead you on a night drive in search of nocturnal creatures or to trek over the 50 km. of hiking trail through forest habitats.

A nominal fee that contributes toward conservation activities is charged upon entrance to Danum Valley.

Contact:

Borneo Nature Tours Sdn Bhd

Tel: 089-880 207 / 880 206 Fax: 089-885 051 E-mail: ijl@po.jaring.my

Road condition : 1st part Good. 2nd part gravel road

Lahad Datu is a town and district located in Tawau Division, in the east of Sabah, eastern Malaysia occupies the peninsula on the north side of Darvel Bay. The population of Lahad Datu District was estimated to be around 118,000 in 1991 and 156,059 in the 2000 census.

Lahad Datu is surrounded by stretches of cocoa and oil palm plantations. The town has an airport for domestic flights.

Basically a planters' town, surrounded by miles of cocoa and oil palm plantations. It is also the gateway to the virgin rainforests of the renowned Danum Valley Conservation Area, the Tabin Wildlife Reserve in the east and Madai Caves further south.

Lahad Datu is used as a stopover town for most international travellers. There is no real tourist industry in the town. Because of the local oil palm industries is booming, a few international style hotels is growing up. Hotel with international standard are Asia Hotel, Executive Hotel , Grace Hotel and the newest De Leon Hotel. They are all in the same town centre area within walking distance to eachother. Asia Hotel has the advantage of being close to the bus station.

More about Hotels in Lahad Datu

A settlement is said to have existed here as early as the 15th century as excavations have unearthed potteries confirming contact with the imperial dynasties of China. Just east of Lahad Datu, lies the village of Tunku, which achieved notoriety as the base of Illanum pirates and slave traders in the 19th century. In August 2000, Eco-Challenge Sabah 2000, the world's toughest adventure race, covered areas like Silam, Danum Valley and Madai. Hundreds of international media and professional support teams from all over the world converged at Lahad Datu, the gateway to pristine rainforests wonders that has wowed many a celebrity and royalty.

Danum Valley Conservation Area
Madai - Baturong Forest Reserve Nature Centre
Tabin Wildlife Reserve

The Tabin Wildlife Reserve occupies a large part of the peninsula forming the northern arm of Darvel Bay. Large mammals such as the endangered rhinoceros, elephants and wild oxes still roam about freely here. Tabin has several intriguing mud volcanoes that provide mineral salts for the wild animals. Efforts are being made to provide some basic facilities for visitors at these popular look-out spots.

Tingkayu & Baturong - On the east of the road linking Lahad Datu with Semporna and Tawau, are several stark white limestone outcrops. Recent discoveries have led archaeologists to believe that cavemen lived in this region as early as 20,000 years ago around the shores of Lake Tingkayu. When the lake drained dry, they moved to the limestone massif of Baturong and eventually shifted further east to the Madai Caves.

Gomantong Caves

Described by WWF as "the best managed edible birds' nest cave in the world", Gomantong Caves has been the focus for birds' nests for centuries. Historical records have traced it as a source of this precious delicacy to the Chinese Emperor centuries ago.

Two cave complexes are found in this intricate cave system. Simud Hitam is a five-minute walk from the Registration Centre and a picnic area. It is a more accessible cave with its roof soaring up to 90 meters high. A well-maintained boardwalk makes it easy to explore this dramatic cave with its specialized ecology. Simud Puteh is where the more valuable 'white' saliva nests of the swiflets are found.

Twice a year, licensed collectors risk their lives climbing to the roof of these cave complexes in a dangerous operation that involves only rattan ladders, ropes and poles precariously attached together. These caves are protected by the Wildlife Department, which only allows the collection twice yearly. Catch the collectors in action between February and April, when the nests are first harvested just after the birds have built them. The next harvest is between July and September, when the new rebuilt nests, are abandoned after eggs have been laid and hatched.

The Gomantong Caves is home to a rich range of birds with crested serpent eagles, kingfishers, Asian fairy bluebirds and leaf birds. Don't be surprised if the magical sight of colorful butterflies suddenly surround you!

Gomantong Hill is the largest limestone outcrop in the lower Kinabatangan area, and contains at least nine caves. For centuries, the Gomantong Caves have been renowned for the valuable edible birds' nests made by two of the four species swiftlets that roost in the caves. During the harvesting month visitors may be able to witness the birds' nest collectors action. This is an age-old tradition and the trade history of bird nest spans several hundreds of years.

The birds' nests harvesters are individuals who have nerves of steel and skills honed through years of experience. Dangling precariously from the narrow network of ladders is not a task for the faint hearted! It is not surprising that there are only a few experienced individuals who are very much in demand by people and communities that hold the Government's harvesting -licenses. Edible birds' nests are protected under the Birds Nest ordinance and the Forest Enactment. Heavy fines and penalties are imposed on unlicensed collectors.

Generally, two collections are made. The first takes place early in the breeding season before the swiftlets lay their eggs. The birds then make another nest in which they finally lay their egg. After the young have fledged, the second collection is made. Care must be taken to assure that the nests are collected only after the young swiftlets have abandoned these nests.

Besides observing the exciting display of skill and courage by the birds' nest harvesters, another activity for keen naturalists would be to watch the spectacular display of over 2 million or so resident bats as they spiral out for their evening feed. This usually occurs between 5:15pm and 6:15pm but rain may delay or 'cancel' this spectacular event. As the bats leave, the swiftlet are usually beginning to make their way back to the caves after a day's foraging. The changing of 'shifts' between the bats and birds makes quite a fascinating scene! Look out for the Bat Hawks that linger not far from the scene, as they prey specifically on the bats as they leave their roost.

Kinabatangan River

It is said that the Chinese Imperial merchants sailed up Kinabatangan River in search of the precious bird's nests. Its floodplain is one of the most exceptional areas in Malaysia. Influenced by the tides of the Sulu Sea and rainfall in the interior, the lower part of the river plain floods regularly. Thus over the centuries, 5 distinct habitats have evolved, waterlogged and dry forests, saline and freshwater swamps and limestone forests, each contributing towards some of the most diverse concentrations of wildlife in Borneo.

The River is 560 km. long and the Lower Kinabatangan is estimated to have the largest concentration of wildlife in all of Malaysia. In fact, all 8 species of hombills found in Borneo - the rhinoceros, helmeted, black, pied, wreathed, wrinkled, white-crowned and bushy crested hombills, have been spotted here. The region is also renowned for colorful tropical birds, crocodiles, huge monitor lizards, wild pigs, otters and several species of monkeys and tree snakes. It is a haven to the rare proboscis monkey, orang utan, the oriental darter, king-fishers and more...

A dawn or dusk river ride past swamps filled with mangrove and nipa promises exciting sightings of wildlife. A view that never fails to delight is a glimpse of the playful proboscis monkeys. These huge-bellied, long-nosed primates with long white tails live by the river and are especially active during these hours when they are socializing, crashing through trees or foraging for food.

The unique landscape feature of the Kinabatangan is the unusual oxbow lakes. A crescent-shaped lake lying alongside a winding river, these lakes are formed as erosion and deposits of soil changes the river's course over time.

An unforgettable experience is the peaceful and serene village-life... as dawn creeps across the river... gentle mists shroud the surreal atmosphere... voices maybe heard across the water as you catch the silhouettes of children floating past in their boats... amidst the birds singing and the animal calls...

Kinabatangan River starts deep in the heart of southwestern Sabah, where trickles spilling down from the watersheds of Trus Madi and the Maliau Basin merge with countless other rivulets to form small streams. These streams grow into the Kuamut and Milian rivers, always moving steadily to the northeast, then merge into one large river, by now the color of kopi susu or milky coffee from silt washed off the sides of the steep slopes down which it flows. The volume of water increases and picks up speed as it moves ever onwards, finally threading through coastal mangroves and spilling out into the Sulu Sea. This is the Kinabatangan, at 560 km, Sabah's longest river and the second longest in all of Malaysia.

Each year, the lashing rains of the northeast monsoon cause the river to swell rapidly. Unable to disgorge into the sea quickly enough, the river frequently overflows its banks and spreads across the flat land of its lower reaches, creating a huge floodplain. The lower Kinabatangan teems with both animal and plant life, making it the best area for viewing wildlife, not just in Sabah but in all of Southeast Asia.

For centuries, the rare treasures of Borneo's forests acted as a magnet for traders who came in search of edible birds' nests, rhinoceros horn, elephant ivory and hornbill casques for the Emperor and the wealthy mandarins of China. They also sought a hardwood resin, damar; flexible rattan vines; beeswax to make candles; fragrant woods and oil-rich illipe nuts. The mighty Kinabatangan was the only route into the forests of northeastern Sabah, to the scattered riverine settlements where forest produce and birds' nests were traded.

Today, a different form of riches draws visitors to the Kinabatangan: its remarkable wildlife and fascinating habitats which include limestone caves, dry land dipterocarp forests, riverine forest, freshwater swamp forest, oxbow lakes and salty mangrove swamps near the coast. The lower Kinabatangan offers an incredible opportunity to see a large range of wildlife including Borneo's unique Proboscis monkeys, the endearing and endangered orangutan, Bornean pygmy elephants, crocodiles, wild cats, bears, otters, wild pigs and countless rare and beautiful birds such as the hornbills and the Oriental Darter.

The conservation of the Kinabatangan is vital, not only in terms of saving Sabah's wildlife but for the indigenous Orang Sungei whose lives depend on the river, and for safeguarding the region's fresh water supply. In order to protect this priceless heritage for all, the 26,000-hectare Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary was declared Malaysia's first Gift to the Earth in 1999. In 2001, the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary was gazetted as a Bird Sanctuary, and work to gazette the area as a permanent wildlife sanctuary is currently underway.

Currently, most nature tourism is concentrated around Sukau, accessible by road and offering comfortable accommodation to visitors prepared to pay for well-managed tours.

Visitors prepared to travel slightly off the beaten track will be rewarded by the opportunity to view the wildlife in less crowded conditions, to get to know the lifestyle of the local people, and to know that they are helping to make tourism a sustainable activity by encouraging the Orang Sungei to benefit from nature tourism and thus be even more committed to the preservation of Kinabatangan's wildlife.

When to visit

The Kinabatangan region can be visited all year round, though it is often flooded during the wettest part of the year in December and January. The main flowering and fruiting season, from April to October is generally fairly dry and a good time for spotting many birds and animals. During the northeast monsoon, from November to March, there are often heavy showers during the afternoons, particularly during December and January. During the rainy season, however, it is possible to negotiate many of the river channels leading in to the oxbow lakes, where there is often a greater concentration of wildlife.

The first harvesting of birds' nests at Gomantong Caves generally lasts from February to April, and the second from August to September.

How to get there

Fly from Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan on Malaysia Airlines, whilst those from Kuala Lumpur can take direct daily flights to Sandakan on AirAsia. Alternatively, take an air-conditioned bus to Sandakan or Lahad Datu from Kota Kinabalu. You can also take a ferry boat to Sukau from the Sandakan harbor.

Where to Stay

In Batu Putih, you can opt to be a part of the Miso Walai homestay programme. Uncle Tan's Jungle Camp, located at Danau Girang, is a favorite. In Sukau, many of the major tour operators maintain lodges. All lodges offer packages, which usually include transport, accommodation, food and guiding services.

For more information, please contact Sabah Tourism Board at 088-212121 or Sri Pelancongan Sabah at 088-232121. To purchase this book, visit Kadaiku located at Sinsuran Complex, Kota Kinabalu.