Mystifying Maliau - 'Lost World' That Time Forgot
http://www.bernama.com/bernama/v5/newsfeatures.php?id=381997
By Mohd Azhar Ibrahim January 07, 2009 10:53 AM
KUALA LUMPUR, Jan 7 (Bernama) -- In 1947, a World War II British pilot was
heading towards Tawau when he flew over what he thought was a mist-shrouded
jungle. But as the cloud dissipated, he found himself encircled by a wall of
steep cliff rising some 915 metres above the jungle floor.
This serendipitous discovery was reported in the Borneo Bulletin which was first
published in 1953; it did not generate much interest.
Surrounded on all sides by wickedly steep and forbidding slopes, Sabah's 'Lost
World' covering an area slightly bigger than Singapore is insurmountable by foot
in all direction.
The only way in is at the point where the Maliau River - the only one flowing
here - exits the basin. But even this is guarded by a series of impressive
waterfalls and gorges. Inaccessibility has led to its natural secrets being
hidden from mankind for millions of years.
LOST WORLD UNTOUCHED BY THE PASSAGE OF TIME
Earlier attempts to scale down the escarpment in 1960, 1976 and 1980 failed and
the explorations were confined to its perimeters.
In 1981, a survey party from the Sabah Foundation landed in a helicopter and
managed to cut a trail which enabled a 43-member expedition to spend three weeks
in the Maliau Basin in 1988.
The expedition opened a Pandora's Box of surprises, unveiling the mystery and
beauty of a world untouched by the passage of time; where nature and wildlife
coexists in perfect harmony, tucked in what seemed to be the very edge of the
world: A 'Jurassic Park' sans dinosaurs.
The indigenous Murut from the nearby forest, believe that a dragon dwells in
Lake Linumunsut - Sabah's only freshwater lake - at the bottom of the basin.
They stay clear of the basin, only going on annual hunts for the bornean bearded
pig that thrives at its periphery.
The Maliau Basin harbour an unusual montage of 12 types of tropical forests,
comprising mainly of lower montane forest dominated by soaring coniferous trees,
rare montane heath forest and lowland and hill dipterocarp forests; all part of
a complex ecosystem that has evolved over thousands of years.
With no evidence of ever having suffered any natural calamities, these forests
are simply magnificent.
MOUNTAIN OF STAIRS
The basin has the highest concentration of waterfalls - 19 and still counting -
in any one area in Malaysia.
The most prominent is the mesmerising 7-tiered staircase shaped Maliau Falls.
Equally captivating are the Giluk Falls, Gungseng Falls, Sebandar Falls,
Takob-akon Falls and the Upper Giluk Falls.
Streams of water cascade down the cliffs at several places, dissipating into
fine drops of moisture that form a perpetual cloud of mist that flow and ebb
like a mystical ocean floating above the trees, curling up as it hits the
cliffs.
Dead leaves lying at the bottom of the streams secrete tannin, which makes the
water appear murky. The high tannin content makes the water acidic, which
accounts for the dearth of fish life here. The falls take on a reddish brown hue
when penetrated by the rays of the radiant morning sun.
The meaning of the word Maliau remains obscure. One account says it means
'Mountain of Stairs' referring to the many waterfalls and ridges. Another
version claims it is Murut for murky.
Whatever meaning it may carry, the Maliau Basin is without doubt one of the most
significant natural treasures of Sabah if not the world.
DIVERSITY OF FLORA AND FAUNA
More than 80 species of mammals, 270 bird species and a diverse flora of over
1,800 species, including six types of pitcher plants and more than 80 species of
orchids - rare and endemic, have been identified in the basin. Nearly a quarter
of these are listed in the Red List of Threatened Species issued by the
International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).
With more than 50 percent of the basin still uncharted, a lot more remains to be
uncovered. Understandably, efforts are currently underway to have the Maliau
Basin listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.
ATTRACTIONS AND ACTIVITIES
Designated as Protected Forest Class 1 in 1997, Maliau is teeming with wildlife
and is ideal for jungle trekking and a taste of the 'lost frontier' experience.
The Shell Maliau Basin Reception and Information Centre is the nerve centre for
all information and activities. There are over 70 km of marked trails, which
would take you through the rainforest to reach the satellite camps, all the way
to the Maliau Falls.
According to Dr Waidi Sinun, Group Manager, Conservation and Environmental
Division, Yayasan Sabah Group, the Centre serves to educate people on nature.
"Our operational focus is research, education, training, and awareness. We are
about to embark on developing tourism infrastructure like chalets and resorts in
the buffer zone," Dr Waidi told Bernama in a telephone interview recently.
"We would like see the Maliau Basin as one of the best wildlife sighting and
wilderness-trekking destination in region," Dr Waidi added.
ACCOMMODATION
There is a range of satellite camps inter-linked by well-maintained trails. Camp
amenities ranged from spartan to basic, with only 20 visitors permitted at any
one camp. These are: Belian Camp, Agathis Camp, Camel Trophy Hut, Ginseng Camp,
Seraya Camp, Lobah Camp, and the Rafflesia, Strike Ridge and Eucalyptus Camps
that are only accessible by helicopter.
HOUSE RULES
Apart from the 'absolutely-no-littering' edict, visitors MUST:
- submit a copy of personal insurance policy that covers emergency helicopter
evacuation;
- submit their latest certificate of health, which is confirmed by a physician;
- obtain special permission and pay separate charges levied for professional
photography or filming;
- be accompanied by a guide at all times - no straying from designated trails;
- stay at the assigned camp;
- not bring in polystyrene food containers, plastic bags and canned food, and
- not make any campfire.
GETTING THERE
Maliau Basin Conservation Area is accessible by a 5-hour drive from both Tawau
and Keningau. A 4wd is essential, as you will be traveling over corrugated
track.
Flying into the Maliau in a helicopter is another fantastic albeit expensive
alternative. There are several helipads which can be used for emergency
evacuations or by visitors who prefer to fly rather than walk.
Permission to enter must be obtained from the Sabah Foundation office either in
Kota Kinabalu or Tawau. Further details can be obtained at www.ysnet.org.my
Those lucky enough to visit the Maliau Basin will not be left untouched by the
mystical aura of a world uninhibited by man, an ecosystem largely undisturbed; a
world lost in time.
Everything you see here stays with you forever.
-- BERNAMA
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January 11, 2009 08:21:41 AM |
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